Mountaineering on Pico de Orizaba (and other Mexican volcanoes)
Pico de Orizaba offers an arduous challenge to any mountaineer and is the best introduction to high altitude mountaineering. Ultimately, there is no other place in the world where you can be in arctic conditions at 18,850 feet, yet be less than 60 miles from the ocean!
The expedition commences when I pick you up at the México City airport. Without delay, we will establish base at our hotel, and begin an orientation of our adventure, where you will get a chance to meet the other members of your team. The key to our success on our expedition is to begin the acclimatization process as quickly as possible, therefore we will spend the first night here at 7,500 feet (during the acclimatization process the body produces more red blood cells in an attempt to carry more oxygen in the blood and occurs strictly while sleeping). Enjoy a luscious meal at my favorite restaurant, and get to bed early, the adventures begin early the next day!
La Malinche Volcano
Continue our journey east toward our first challenge, the La Malinche Volcano (14,600 feet). Historically, this mountain was named after Hernán Cortéz’s interpreter and lover. Cortez was the Spanish conquistador who conquered the Aztecs and all of México. This volcano is where most of México’s famous Olympic long distance runners train. Climb through the lush coniferous forest and beyond the tree line in order to reach the narrow ridge that will take us to the top of La Malinche. Here, on the horizon, we will be rewarded with our first glimpse of our next objectives, Iztaccíhuatl to the west, and massive Pico de Orizaba to the east. We will return to camp and spend the night at 9,850 ft.
Iztaccíhuatl
After a breakfast of fresh squeezed juice and your favorite grain, we will drive to the base town of Amecameca, where we will arrange permits for the national park and for our climb of Izta. (Iztaccíhuatl is affectionately known to the locals simply as “Izta”). We will sleep in the comfortable cabin at Paso de Cortez, at an altitude of 13,000 feet, helping us continue our acclimatization for Pico de Orizaba.
While enjoying breathtaking views of the active Popocatépetl Volcano directly outside of our windows, we will make a delicious and hardy breakfast. All of this after a restful night at the Paso de Cortez cabin. In continuance with the acclimatization process, we will perform several important breathing exercises. Next we will begin my glacier training class, allowing us to safely attack Izta (17,400 feet). In preparation for our ascent, we will prepare our packs to climb up to 15,000 feet, the location of high camp. In the ancient Aztec language of Nahuatl, Iztaccíhuatl means “the sleeping women”, as the mountain’s silhouette resembles a women lying on her back. It is a sacred place, and in the prehistoric times was used for human sacrifice.
Alpine start (wake up very early!) not only to enjoy the alpenglow, but to successfully attempt Izta through our amazing route, the “Ridge of the Sun.” This is a lengthy and strenuous route, where we will have to cross multiple glaciers to reach the summit. The ridge requires all of our mountaineering skills, and we will work as a team to stay clear of all of the crevasses, prevalent on the ridge. After our climb, we will return to the cabin, pick up our gear, and head to Tlalchichuca, Pico de Orizaba’s base camp village to enjoy the local cuisine.
Pico de Orizaba
We reserve one day in case our first attempt was not successful. If we have already conquered Pico de Orizaba, we will begin our return to Mexico City, stopping first to enjoy the ancient Aztec ruins of Teotihuacan, the third largest pyramids in the world.
We reserve another day as our final summit push, if prior attempts have proven unsuccessful. If successful, this day is for you to spend at the location of your choice; sightseeing in México City, visiting ancient pyramids, or maybe just simply relaxing and taking in the massive mountains you have just conquered.
The expedition ends with your safe delivery to the Mexico City Airport.
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